If you love Japanese culture, this is a great way to craft traditional oriental clothing. Although you can find a wide variety of such costumes in theme stores, you can make them yourself, as it is not difficult. Therefore, today we suggest that you sew a kimono with your own hands according to a pattern.
A little about these clothes
Previously, a kimono consisted of underwear, shoes and socks, and for each occasion, women had a separate set. Over time, everything has changed and now this concept means a voluminous robe with a wide belt at the waist. Suits come in a variety of lengths, patterns, colors, and fabrics. The traditional T-cut is ankle-length collar.
Six interesting facts
Before you sew a kimono, we suggest you learn a few interesting facts about it:
1. Previously, the word “kimono” was called any outfit in Japan, and only then it began to mean a robe.
2. The Japanese borrowed the idea from the Chinese.
3. The classic version does not have buttons, fasteners and other accessories, except for a wide belt.
4. Even a hostess without experience in sewing can make a costume, since the pattern is drawn simply in the shape of a rectangle.
5. Most often, rich colors and colorful prints are used for the product.
6. The outfit has one universal size that fits any figure thanks to the belt.
Feature of the outfit
Japanese outfit differs from others in the following ways:
- T-shaped cut;
- wide sleeves;
- waist line highlighted with a belt;
- quality fabrics with an elegant sheen.
Interesting: Kimono Robe Pattern
The classic geisha kimono is an oversized robe with long and wide sleeves. Usually such a kimono was made of light colored fabrics or decorated with embroidery.
For a geisha, a kimono is workwear, so it is simple to perform and differs only in color and texture. If you wish, you can sew such a kimono for yourself as home clothes.
The kimono can be schematically depicted as follows:
The peculiarity of the kimono is that it consists of straight lines and geometric shapes – rectangles, trapezoids, squares. This clearly distinguishes traditional Japanese clothing from European models, where, on the contrary, rounded details prevail, smooth lines repeating the silhouette of the body.
This difference contains general cultural concepts about the standard of beauty: for Europeans it is important to emphasize the figure and its relief, for the Japanese, the main thing is to hide all the flaws and differences in lines, to make the figure straight and even.
If you wish, you can make a kimono tapered from top to bottom or completely straight, but the general principle of a straight cut must be observed.
A simple cut of a traditional Japanese kimono might look like this:
- Sew back the details of the back and cut out the neck, taking into account the allowances;
- Sew the front shelves to the back ones from the shoulder to the neckline and the corresponding extensions;
- Fold the details of the sleeves along the fold line and sew so that you get two “pipes”;
- Sew the resulting parts (“pipes”) to the kimono – you can only sew on the upper part, and just sew up the rest;
- Sew the sides of the kimono from the sleeves to the floor;
- Sew the strips of the collar into one and sew it along from the seamy side, turn it out and iron it;
- Sew on the collar from the middle of the back neck down;
- Sew the loose edges.
Fashionistas can still wear a kimono, but not traditional, but in a modern “processing”.
Kimono dresses are fashionable clothes for women of all ages. The classic kimono pattern was taken as a basis, and then fashion designers and designers showed ingenuity and imagination so that beautiful modern dresses came out of traditional Japanese clothes.
Light fabrics such as silk are used to sew such dresses. They can be both long and short, multi-colored and monochromatic.
When the children have grown up and it is time to send them to the sports sections, many mothers who have chosen martial arts for their children, the question arises: where to get a kimono? In stores, it can not be found everywhere, and the price is not suitable for everyone. The solution in this case is to sew a kimono with your own hands.
Kimono is comfortable loose clothing for sports (karate, judo, aikido, etc.) and more. They sew it from natural fabrics that absorb moisture well. Buttons on such clothes are not provided, but there is only a belt. Now let’s turn to the patterns.
Building a kimono pattern
Draw a right angle with apex at point A, from which to put down the value of the Product Length.
From point A, lay down 1/8 of the Neck Girth (ОШ) and from the resulting point draw a horizontal line to the left. Along this horizontal, set aside 1/4 Osh plus 2 cm and draw a vertical up from the resulting point. Draw the neck of the back in accordance with the drawing (Fig. 1).
From point A, put to the left Shoulder line length of the product = 1/4 Hip circumference (OB) plus 4-8 cm.
The length of the shoulder line of the product with an increase should not exceed the width of the fabric. For very plump figures or tall clients, it is recommended to make the kimono from a wider fabric.
Extend the shoulder line to 1/2 of the span of the arms. The span of the arms can be measured from wrist to wrist with arms extended to the sides, or calculated.
The kimono sleeve ends just above the wrist. Sleeve length should not exceed the width of the fabric.
Draw a vertical downward from the point defining the Sleeve Length. The width of the sleeves is optional. Mark the length of the open sleeve at the bottom line at the wrist.
Also note the Front Waist Length (RTA) and the Armhole Height of the product equal to 1/2 RTA, draw the horizontal lines to the right from the points obtained.
Below the waistline, draw a transverse fold, which is laid when wrapping and tying a kimono.
To determine the depth of the front neckline, lay 14-16 cm down the middle line of the product from the base point of the back neckline and draw the collar in accordance with the drawing. The width of the finished collar varies from 5 to 9 cm.
Draw a vertical seam line at the front and a bead edge line as shown in the drawing.
Japanese kimono cut details
Copy all parts from the drawing.
Copy the sleeve mirrored relative to the top line.
Measure the length of the back neckline and lengthen the collar by this amount.
Align all cutting lines, indicate the direction of the warp thread (Fig. 2).
FEATURES OF JAPANESE STYLE IN CLOTHING DESIGN
The formation of the national Japanese costume took place over the centuries, and was due to the influence of historical, cultural and aesthetic factors. Under their influence, the traditional costume was transformed, acquiring expressiveness, concrete laconic forms, the number of layers of the costume changed, the clarity of the silhouette, but the principle of cut always remained unchanged.
The Japanese costume is a system associated not only with the anthropological features of the figure, but also expressed by the mathematical proportions of the “golden section” between the geometric parameters of the elements of the costume.
Fitting clothes on a figure in accordance with traditional norms requires aligning the curves of the body, therefore, in a traditional suit, methods of constructive modeling are used, and the shape of the product is flattened. Trimming the female figure to the aesthetic ideal is carried out through the use of various thickenings in the underwear, which is worn under the lower kimono: an overlay for the shoulder girdle provides smoothing of the prominent points of the chest; Waist alignment pad – straightens the curves of the waist, hips and buttocks. Under the obi belt, a rigid obi-ita half-belt is placed in front, and an obi-age roller is placed on the back.
In the traditional Japanese women’s costume, the fit of the costume on the figure is of great importance: the clothing has a flat cut and the volumetric-spatial shape is created at the time of dressing.
Due to the tight wrapping and fitting of clothing at the level of the thighs, a much greater volume is formed in the chest area than in the thigh area, thereby creating a direction for the development of the shape from the bottom up. But another option is also possible, when sufficient freedom is formed in the area of the thighs due to the spreading of the lower part of the hem of the multilayer clothing, and then the maximum development of the shape of the suit is directed from top to bottom. Rice. 1
Figure 1. Development of the shape of the traditional Japanese costume.
Thus, the shape of one and the same shoulder garment (kimono) can be transformed depending on the ways of organizing the air space between the body and the suit.
This variant of the formation of the suit is possible when using a flat cut, when the details of the cut of the clothing do not repeat the shape of the human figure and the suit takes on a volumetric shape
, depending on the methods of fitting the products and the manner of wearing.
Currently, there are two leading directions in the development of the Japanese style in the design of the costume: traditional and modern. The traditional trend means the preservation of the shape of the national Japanese costume. The Japanese style, as a manifestation of the national culture of Japan, is characterized by a
modular principle of the
formation of a costume with clearly established proportions and the manner of fastening clothes to the figure.
The modern trend refers to the creativity of Japanese designers. The modern direction of the Japanese school was formed in the 1980s. and presented by designers: Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, Kenzo and others. As a result of their creative searches, a new direction in the development of clothing appeared – Japanese fashion, created on the basis of the principles of shaping and aesthetics of traditional Japanese costume.
A distinctive feature of the modern trend is the emergence of a new method of designing clothes – deconstructivism, the essence of which is a
departure from the classical European norms of
fitting a suit on a figure.
In costume design, there are shaping methods known both in traditional Japanese culture and in modern design. The most common techniques in the collections of Japanese designers: symmetry, dimensionlessness, multifunctionality, layering, deconstructivism. When analyzing the range of modern Japanese suits, the following features were revealed. Shaping the silhouette
: maximum filling in the shoulder girdle; flattening of the breast shape; Accentuated fit at the thighs. Horizontal divisions are actively used.
: sloping; extended.
: shirt; one-piece cut; raglan.
To create new models of clothing based on Japanese motives, it is possible to use the following options: maintaining the shape of the costume as a whole; adherence to the principles of the relationship between the costume and the figure on specific supporting areas of the figure. Moreover, both options will correspond to the Japanese theme.
When using a flat cut in modern clothing design, constructive increments, as a rule, are relative, and depend on the parameters of the figure. In a traditional Japanese costume, the width of the product is calculated as follows: Shizd = k * About, (k = 1.5) where k is the coefficient, About is the volume of the hips. When using the Unified Clothing Design Method (EMCO), constructive increments have stable
depend on the silhouette and degree of fit
product. Their distribution on the structure is clearly defined, although at present there is a redistribution of increments towards the back.
To carry out a visual-graphic analysis of the collections of fashion houses: Prada, Chanel, Dior, Kenzo, etc. (spring-summer 2011, autumn-winter 2011/2012, Paris, London), models were selected that correspond to the direction of ethnicity [5,6,7 ]. Fig.2 As a result of statistical data processing, the following results were obtained: the most characteristic features of ethnostyle are displacement of the shoulder line, extended sleeve, emphasis on the waist; expansion of the shoulder girdle, narrowing of the bottom of the product. The frequency of occurrence of models that meet all these parameters is about 20%. The most common signs: displacement of the shoulder line and expansion of the sleeve, – models with these parameters – 30%. The combination of placket collar and wrap features is about 5%. Further, 5% of the models studied had an X-shaped silhouette. Of the total number of models made in ethnic style,
Of particular importance is the coloristic solution of the traditional Japanese costume and the placement of the psychological center. The whole range of colors is based on samples of natural origin, taking into account the seasonal characteristics of the flowering of some plants. Colors are combined in a special way, thereby resulting in a unique color palette characteristic only for Japan.
When creating a traditional Japanese costume, the technique of superimposing a large number of clothing details on top of each other is used (layering and its imitation), and each layer has its own color scheme and will be visible only in certain areas.
In the women’s kimono, decorative zoning is used, important areas when drawing a pattern are the left shoulder, the chest area and the area between the shoulder blades, the knee area, etc. Each zone is not only a compositional center, but also carries information about the wearer of the kimono [9 , p.12]. So, for example, the location of the picture above or below the knee level indicates the age of the woman. Moreover, the color scheme of the kimono and the pattern of the material are selected for each age group.
The development of world fashion trends in clothing design is oriented towards the East. The development of modern clothing models in ethnic style using traditional Japanese methods of shaping is one of the promising directions. Elements of flat cut, peculiarities of position and width of sleeves, volumetric – spatial forms of traditional Japanese costume are actively used by designers when creating new collections.
List of used literature:
- Buxbaum G. Style icons. Fashion history of the twentieth century / G. Buksbaum-SPb.-2009-p.192
- Ermilova V. Modeling and decoration of clothes / V. Ermilova-M.-2006, -p. 184
- Trever-Spencer S. Handbook of the designer on the forms and styles of clothing / S. Trever-Spencer, Z. Zaman – M. – 2008-p. 144
- Afanasyeva, N.V. Analysis of the fashionable image of a female figure in the XX-XXI centuries. // N.V. Afanasyeva, V.E. Kuzmichev // Clothing industry. – 2004. – No. 3. – P.47-48.
- 2011, Vogue №3, с 464
- 2011, Collections №4, с. 176
- 2011, Elle №1741, с.382
- Khovanchuk O. Traditional Japanese costume in classical literature / O. A. Khovanchuk // Bulletin of the Far Eastern Branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences-2011.-№1 (155), -p. 93-100
- Danilova O. N. Information and creative space of regional ecodesign / O.N. Danilova, N.A. Konopleva // Design and Technologies – 2010 – №19 \ 61 – p.9-19
- KOBE – FASHION CITY August 2, 2010 | Travel Resources, Travel | Yet the port cities have a unique and inviting charm. This is the place where roads, people, cultures meet. Kobe has been an important center for foreign trade since its inception. Kobe has the spirit of a European city, and its inhabitants look very different from the inhabitants of other large cities in Japan. There are many attractions both in the city and outside of it.
- CLOTHING FOR MILLIONS August 26, 2013 | InterviewFashion, designEconomics | Design secrets from Takizawa Naoki, chief designer of UNIQLO (Nihon Keizai newspaper, electronic edition of 08/01/2013) How to maintain your individuality if you wear clothes that are produced in mass quantities? UNIQLO has put forward the project “Life wear” – “Clothes for life”, in which it plans to combine technologies of thermal underwear, fleece, etc., and also offers new ideas for combining different items
- INTERNATIONAL PROJECTS FOR STUDYING TRADITIONAL AND MODERN JAPANESE COSTUME July 22, 2011 | Kimono | O. N. Danilova, Cand. tech. sciences, associate professor of the department. CM VSUES As the advanced experience of international cooperation shows, fruitful intercultural communication becomes possible if there is a favorable creative environment open for the exchange of creative ideas. The most successful projects of this kind are based on respect for ethnic cultures and are accompanied by a display of colorful traditional costumes. The image of a man in ethnic costume
- KAIZEN IS NOT ENOUGH March 26, 2021 | Interview |
Traditional CraftsWe met at an exhibition of traditional arts in the Japanese prefecture of Fukui. The Ministry of Industry holds such exhibitions annually in different prefectures. In a large group of buyers, she stood out a lot. Firstly, because there were very few women among them, and secondly, the style of dress and behavior. Despite the rainy days, she was elegantly dressed in Jacqueline Kennedy style.
- ISSEI MIYAKE – RED LACQUER, ORIGAMI AND PLISSE June 3, 2021 | KimonoFashion, design | I have been studying Japanese traditional dress for a long time, and the attitude of the Japanese towards their traditional dress has always inspired me. Indeed, in order to see the Japanese “folk” costume, it is enough to come to Japan, it is better, of course, on the holiday of majority – furisode on young girls will amaze you with their diversity. On the other hand, in order to study Russian folk costume, you will have to
Kimono style blouse
To sew a blouse you need:
- ready-made bias tape or fabric for its manufacture;
- buttons in the color of guipure – 2 pcs.;
- threads, sewing accessories.
Kimono blouse pattern with one-piece sleeves
We need a ready-made pattern for the base of a straight dress. On it, we outline the line of the yoke and cut the pattern along this line.
To create the required volume of fabric along the yoke line, we make several cuts of the pattern and move it apart. Continue the shoulder line by the required amount. We connect the lower line of the sleeve with a curved curve with the line of the side seam.
We cut out the back narrower than the shelf. When marking the back yoke, take into account that its right side should be 2 cm longer than the left.
- backrest – 1 piece;
- front – 1 piece;
- front yoke – 2 parts;
- back yoke left – 2 parts;
- back yoke, right – 2 parts.
We cut out all the details with 1 cm seam allowances.The allowance for processing the lower cut of the sleeves is 1 cm, the lower cut of the blouse is 3 cm.
We reinforce the inner parts of the yoke with a thin interlining.
We sew in pairs the shoulder seams on the outer and inner yokes, having previously cleaved them with pins. If desired, the seam on the outer yoke can also be reinforced with a strip of non-woven fabric, then cutting off the excess close to the line.
We fold the outer and inner yokes with the front sides to each other, fix with pins. We carry out machine stitching along the roll-out and back cuts.
We cut out allowances at the corners, along the roll-out line we make notches, not reaching 1 mm to the seam. This is done so that the allowances do not “pull” the fabric after being turned inside out.
We turn out the yoke, iron it. Pin off the lower cuts or sweep them off.
We carry out the seams on the sleeves, we cut the allowances up to 3-5 mm. We process the cuts with an oblique inlay. For blouses made of guipure, this is the most appropriate option. In this case, the seamy side of the product will look very neat.
Gather the upper cuts of the back, shelves and sleeves to a length equal to the length of the lower cuts of the yoke (do not forget to take into account 2 cm of the yoke length for the overlap under the fastener).
We sew the yoke with the lower details of the blouse or pin it off with pins. On the yoke, we put one edge on the other with an overlap of 2 cm. We attach the yoke.
We put the printed, glued and cut patterns on the fabric, we circle, we apply allowances for the seams – on all sides 1.5-2 centimeters. Depending on the flowability of the fabric, more allowances can be made. Leave 3-4 centimeters along the lower cut.
From satin or silk we cut:
- two blanks for the collar stand;
- two blanks for the backrest part;
- one blank for the shelf part.
We cut out one blank of the collar stand from the adhesive lining.
Japanese patterns: tailoring unusual dresses
We start with the bottom rack – duplicate it with an adhesive backing.
After that we grind down and iron down the chest dart on the shelf, then grind and iron the tackle darts on the back and shelf details to the center.
The oblique inlay for processing the lower cut of the upper part of the shelf part and the curved cut on the shelf part is ironed along the middle with the right side up. We fold it with the lower cut of the upper part of the shelf part and the curved cut of the shelf part, grind it.
Next, we overlap. We sweep the side cuts of the back part, the shelf and its top, the cuts of the armhole of the shelf and its top, the cuts of the armhole of the back part. Sew and hem the shoulder seams of the outfit. We iron them on the back.
Sew and iron the side seam of the top of the shelf part and the left side seam of the back part.
Sew the left side seam from the zipper stitch mark to the cut. Iron the side seam allowances, iron the edges of the cut for stitching in the zipper. We put the zipper under the incision in such a way that its teeth are not visible, we grind it. Sew and iron the right side seam up to the notch, leave the incision unstitched. We fold and stitch allowances for the seams of the armholes.
Sew and overwrap the middle cut of the back part.
We iron the lower cut of the rack by 1 centimeter. We grind the racks along the outer cut. We trim the allowances at the rounded edges of the rack, turn the part out onto the front side and press it on. We sew the part of the stand into the neck, and we sew the ironed cut of the stand into the seam of the stitching of the lower stand. We lay a finishing line on the part of the rack.
We measure the length of the cuts. Cut and hem the bottom of the dress. We grind the bottom corners of the cuts and turn them out, carefully straightening them. We attach the allowances of the cuts to the main parts using an adhesive spider web. We fold and stitch the bottom of the product.
Sew loops on the top of the shelf, and hooks on the shelf. Sew on decorative button loops on the shelf and its upper part. That’s it, the Japanese-style dress is ready!
The width of the kimono sleeves is determined by the marital status and the occasion for which the kimono is intended.
Married women wear kimonos with relatively narrow sleeves – 40-50 cm (tomesode). The furisode kimono (furi = fluttering, sode = sleeve) is a kimono with wide sleeves for young single girls. Furisode sleeves vary in width from 75 to 105 cm (ill. 3).
Sleeve width variations for furisode kimono:
Kofurisode: furisode with narrower sleeves (75 cm)
Tufurisode: furisode with wider sleeves (90 cm)
Ofurisode: furisode with extra wide sleeves (105 cm)
To transfer the ratio of sleeve width to Height to European sizes, you can calculate the sleeve width using the following formulas:
- tomesode = Height / 3 + (from -2 cm to +5 cm)
- furisode = Height / 3 + 20-50 cm
In addition to the width of the sleeves, kimonos differ in combinations of colors and patterns, as well as in material.
Kurotomesode (kuro = black) is a formal kimono for a married woman. It is bluish black and is worn with a white obi.
Irotomesode (iro = color) is a plain kimono with a pattern below the obi.
Komon (fine pattern) is a casual kimono with a small repeating pattern. It is suitable for married and unmarried women.
It is very difficult to choose a vestment that will correctly correspond to the occasion, status, age, marital status, traditions. After all, there are many varieties of this national dress, especially for women. The main types of kimono:
- Homongi is an outfit for formal occasions and high-style receptions. Drawings adorn the shoulders and sleeves. Both married and unmarried ladies can wear it.
- Iromuji is a plain robe for a tea ceremony. The fabric can have a woven jacquard casing pattern.
- Tomesode is the most formal attire of a married woman, with a pattern below the waist or at the hem. Its variety – kurotomesode, black with five coats of arms kamon (family coat of arms), is worn for the wedding of the mother of the bride and groom.
- Furisode is an official kimono for an unmarried girl with a train length of the sleeves up to 1 meter. It can be seen on bridesmaids during a Japanese wedding, or on maiko – apprentices of a geisha.
- Komon is an outfit with a small pattern. Suitable for walking, visiting a restaurant.
- Edo komon – kimono with polka dots. Previously, it was worn mainly by samurai. Now, if coats of arms are applied to it, it can be used as clothing for receptions.
- Mofuku is a black mourning dress intended for close relatives of the deceased. The rest of those present at the ceremony may be dressed in iromuji with black elements.
- Susohiki is a kimono with a long train worn by geisha and performing traditional dances in it.
- Yukata is a summer version of the national dress made of linen or cotton. It is unofficial.
We sew a kimono according to a pattern
So, how to sew a kimono with your own hands:
1. We take a material measuring 110 cm.
2. The back can be either in the form of one part or in the form of two. We cut out this area.
3. On the back at the top we outline a cutout for the neck half the size of its girth.
4. The front area of the suit is a back-sized rectangle divided into two equal parts.
5. In order to make sleeves, cut out rectangles in advance, fold and sew.
6. To make an oblique sleeve, we need a square piece of fabric with sides of 1 meter. We retreat from above by 30 cm, we should get a triangle. We cut it off, and connect the edges with the main part of the pattern.
7. Sew the front part with the back in the shoulder area.
8. Then attach the sleeves to the base. In the already sewn form, we apply them to the main workpiece and sew them on a typewriter from the seamy side.
9. If you want a wide scent, attach additional inserts on each side to the front parts.
10. We proceed to the collar. We take a piece of material 12 cm wide. The length of this part will be equal to the 3rd length of the suit itself. Fold a piece of fabric in half along its length, fix the center of the collar to the center of the neck from the back, attach it to the triangular cuts on extensions.
11. Making a belt according to a pattern. As a result, its dimensions should be as follows: width 30 cm, length 400 cm.
A simple pattern of the product is shown below.
Features of sewing
During work, it is necessary to take into account some features. In a kimono, it is impossible to see the rounded contours, so the cut will always be clear and straight. It is recommended to work with soft threads, they will help to maintain the original appearance along with it, not to stretch.
It is also important to understand that due to Japanese customs, their national costume does not emphasize the feminine curves of the body. But this does not exclude elegance and showiness in such an image. In any case, the waist is always highlighted in these clothes, which makes the silhouette attractive.
The obi belt is not only the part that emphasizes the waist, but also an important component of the entire costume. Tying it beautifully and correctly is considered a real art in Japan. It can be designed as a pocket or a fluffy bow on the back. The bows themselves can also vary and be selected depending on the occasion or event.
Pattern and master class: Yukata kimono
Yukata is one of the most popular outfits in Japan! It is worn by both men and women – the cut differs only in shorter sleeves for men. Like other forms of traditional Japanese clothing, the yukata has straight seams and wide sleeves. Yukata is usually made from silk or cotton. This outfit is worn in combination with cotton underwear (juban), sandals (geta) and a folding fan. This robe is considered a “bathing dress”, but nowadays it is worn everywhere (at home, outside the city, they even simply sleep in it), especially in the hot summer months. National colors of the dress are white-blue or white-gray.
To sew a yukata, we need the following tools and materials:
- a piece of cotton or natural silk 150 centimeters wide and 300 centimeters long;
- crooked beak;
- pencil or crayon;
- sharpened scissors;
- sewing machine.
This pattern is universal and fits any size up to 50-52, adjust the height to yours. In our case, the kimono is designed for a man with a height of 170-180 centimeters. The length of the product is 140 centimeters, the length of the sleeve is 39 centimeters.
All parts of the pattern, including the assembly diagram, should be printed on A4 sheets. The details of the pattern must be glued together in the sequence indicated on the sheets. Print scale – 100%, no indents!
From the main fabric, we need to cut out:
- two sleeve blanks (39 x 92 centimeters);
- one-piece blank for the shelf and backrest 68 x 140 centimeters (instead of the shelf there will be a fold, that is, one blank with a fold);
- two blanks for the smell of the front 16 x 110 centimeters;
- part of the facing for processing the neck 158 x 5.5 centimeters in finished form;
- belt detail 240 x 5 centimeters in finished form.
The length of the belt can be calculated individually – we multiply the waist circumference by three.
How to sew a yukata kimono: a master class
First, we take two blanks for the sleeves, find the middle of each part, apply to the shoulder fold face to face. We sew, not reaching about 10 centimeters to the edge of the workpiece.
Then we fold the kimono with the wrong side up along the shoulder fold and sew the lower cut of the sleeves on the sewing machine, remembering to fold them in half. We leave 28 centimeters for the hands, at the bottom of the yukata a “pocket” is formed for carrying various small things. We sew the side with a regular machine seam. We process all seams on an overlock or on a sewing machine with a zig-zag seam.
After that, we sew the smell to all the details of the front. Pay attention to the bottom edge!
Now we process the neck edge. We apply it to the front side of the front of the kimono and sew.
We process the lower cut of the kimono.
We fold the two belt blanks with the front sides inward and process, leaving a little space for turning the part inside out. We turn the belt out and go through it with an iron, sew up the hole. Yukata is ready!
The kimono is tied with a belt called an obi. The standard fukuro-obi belt has a width of 27 cm and a length of 4 m.For special occasions, a maru-obi with a width of 65 cm and a length of 4 m is used.
There are many ways to tie an obi. The traditional knot is taiko (ill. 4). It is worn with a cylindrical pad, which is fixed with an obi-scarf (obiage). Obi from above is tied with a cord (obi-jime). Another knot is the fukura suzume, which looks more like a bow.
The selection of the knot and the type of kimono depends on the marital status and age of the woman. Traditional obi cushions are more commonly worn by married women. The bow with a bow, on the other hand, is more common on the kimono of unmarried girls. However, traditional rules have lost their rigor, and often obi knots are tied at will.
Let’s start sewing
So, what is needed for sewing:
- fabric (width 80-90 cm, length – 4 m);
- sewing accessories (threads, scissors, needles);
- sewing machine.
For a kimono, you need to know the following measurements:
- neck circumference (SS);
- chest girth (Sg);
- waist circumference (From);
- back length to waist (Dst);
- length from waist to knee (Dtk);
- the length of the outstretched arms between the tips of the middle fingers (Dp);
- hip girth (Sat);
- side length from waist to floor (Dsb);
- length from knee to floor (DK).
To accurately determine the size of the future product, you can use the table:
For sewing, linen or cotton fabrics with synthetic thread are suitable. Heavy cotton fabrics are also recommended. If the canvas is thin, it can be folded in half. The most important thing is that the fabric is breathable and absorbs sweat.
Here is a basic pattern for a simple training kimono (jacket and pants):
a – general view of the finished product;
b – jacket;
c – armpit lines;
g – trousers (back and front parts);
d – swallow;
e – fastener bar.
All parts are cut in two, taking into account the seam allowances.
The front and back of the jacket are the same, but for the front you need to make a neckline and a wrap cut. The collar is usually made “stand-up” and a long rectangular fabric is used for sewing it, which goes to process the edge of the wrap to the very waist. The fabric is stitched several times to keep the edges well. The scent and collar should look like one.
To make a belt (25 cm long), you will need about 5 meters of fabric 50 cm wide. The fabric is folded several times and stitched so that the belt is strong and does not rub.
Where to begin
It will not be difficult to make a pattern.In Japan, the women’s kimono represents beauty and nobility.
The first step is to decide on the material. The fabric can be silk, satin, cotton, linen. Less commonly used synthetic. Combining convenience and style, women’s kimono rightfully takes pride of place in the wardrobe of the beautiful half of humanity.
In Japan, the material is sold in rolls 39 cm wide and 12 m long. You can use standard sized fabrics. The drawing can be any suitable for Chinese or Japanese motives.Kimono fabric
When sewing, it is important to consider the length of the garment. It can be adjusted if it is possible to make a fold under the belt. Sleeves are usually made about 54 cm long and 75 cm wide.
Often, for sewing a kimono robe, they are limited to satin, silk or chiffon. These fabrics are weightless and striated, which is great for home summer wear. They are pleasant to the touch of hands and body, perfectly highlight the beauty of a woman. If the fabric is good and the tailoring is correct, you can even welcome guests in a kimono.
Important! The base of the kimono is actively used by various fashion designers for sewing evening and dressing dresses for the home. If your goal is to create a warm and cozy robe, then you should pay attention to terry cloth or velor.
Printed drawings with Japanese or Chinese motifs look especially beautiful and feminine on kimono fabrics: cherry blossoms, samurai, birds and mountains. Traditionally, kimonos are made in several colors: white, raspberry, red, pink, blue, green. Less commonly, yellow, burgundy or other shades of red are used.
How to sew a casual boho dress
Boho style is a beautiful and feminine style of clothing. Dress patterns for this style are distinguished by simplicity and airiness of lines. Boho means natural fabrics, lace, ruffles, layering, embroidery, and well-chosen shoes and accessories. We have to admit that being boho is not cheap. Natural fabrics and related products for the boho style are worth more than ordinary items made from artificial materials.
Drawings for everyday dresses – large and small checks, floral motifs, ethnic patterns and “splashes”. Lace and ruffles will be a beautiful addition. Below we lay out a pattern for a shirt dress from 42 to 58 sizes. We have not forgotten about the most popular 50 size. The patterns are suitable not only for thin ladies, but also for full ones.
The free boho style has, in turn, many options:
- Mori girl forest nymph – modern style of Japanese girls.
- Boho glamor.
- Boho hippie.
- Homeless style.
I would like to dwell separately on such a style of boho clothing as a shirt dress. Such a dress can be of different lengths, with or without pockets, with a belt made of dress fabric or a leather strap. There can be a lot of options here. One thing invariably is the shirt collar. It can be regular, rounded or stand-up collar. The model can be free or flared. They wear these dress-shirts with trousers, jeans, leggings, and so on.
Before you start sewing, you need to take basic body measurements. For a kimono, these are: Ssh, St, Sg, Sat, Di, Ds, Do, Dpt, etc. The drawing of the future product can be immediately performed on the canvas. Further instructions are as follows:
- It’s worth starting with the grid – auxiliary lines;
- The lower cut of the canvas is inscribed “Bottom”;
- Above from the “Bottom” is deposited Di perpendicular to the fold;
- Ds + 2 centimeters are measured down from the original – the level of the waist;
- Also, from the initial downward, Cr * 1/3 + 10 centimeters is measured – the level of the chest;
- Measure Cr * ½ + Pg from the fold along the chest level. It is important to remember that Pg should not be less than 6 centimeters, and the value of Cr * ½ + Pg should not be less than Sat + Pb. PB can be made minimal – up to 2 centimeters;
- Measure the width of the sprout along the canvas from the fold, equal to Ssh * 1/3 + 1.5 centimeters. From the received point, which is indicated by a cross in the picture, set aside Dp along the initial one;
- Measure the depth of the sprout along the fold of the canvas downward along the original. It is equal to 1/3 of the width;
- Connect all points of the sprout with a smooth line;
- Tilt the shoulder slice, measuring 3 centimeters down from the original on the vertical;
- Shorten the one-piece sleeve by 3 centimeters from the side of the seam;
- Draw the bisector from the corner of the armhole by 5-7 centimeters and smoothly bring out the bottom of the sleeves and the side seam;
- Cut out the back with minimal allowances and put the shelves in place;
- Cut a shelf along the back.
Features of the pattern of the base of the kimono
Kimono is an oversized robe that will fit any figure. The standard width of the kimono back is 60 cm. It is draped on the figure with the help of a belt and the product does not seem too large. If more volume is required, wedges are added to the base.
Important! A traditional kimono is made from a fabric 30 cm wide. This requires cutting out the stitching part of the back, but if the fabric is wider than 30 cm, then this is not necessary, unless, of course, it is necessary to exactly repeat the traditional kimono.
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When cutting, only simple geometric shapes are used. The back is a rectangle with a width of 60 cm and the required length. The shelves are 45 cm long, and the edge of the waist is cut 15 degrees towards the throat. The throat is processed from a 10 cm wide fabric shelf. Another feature is the length of the entire product. Usually it is done 20 cm more than necessary.
Features of the pattern of sleeves
The sleeves are also cut with rectangles. Unlike tailored robes with thin and tight sleeves, the traditional kimono has very wide sleeves sewn into the corner. The kimono sleeve is sewn into the base not along the full cut, but only along its half. Most of the sleeve, folded in half, falls not on the arm, but on the hanging edge. Remaining open edges are sewn up with a corner. It is thanks to this that this kind of kimono is obtained, which distinguishes it from other similar robes.
The sleeves are also cut out in the form of rectangles, but in the traditional outfit these are not narrow sleeves that are familiar to everyone strictly on the arm, but on the contrary, very wide elements sewn onto the corner with a hole for the wrist in the upper corner. The entrance to the sleeve is also in the upper corner on the other side of the rectangle. At the same time, the sleeve is sewn into the base of the kimono not along the full cut, but only in half, and the large side of the sleeve folded in half falls not on the side of the hand, but on the hanging edge. And the remaining open edges are sewn up with a corner. Thanks to this, a special look is obtained, which distinguishes the Japanese kimono from other, similar in cut outfits.