Guipure dresses are delicate, feminine and sophisticated. In order not to spoil the product, you need to pay attention to each sewing unit. Know how to finish the neckline, how to mask the seam allowances, tuck the bottom on the sleeves and hem. Then the product will be not only beautiful, but also comfortable to wear. And it will look like a professional couturier.
Guipure is a material that is distinguished by transparency, the presence of a mesh on which lace fragments are placed. Some types of guipure can stretch, others do not. The most important thing is that the fabric is transparent and has an uneven density. Therefore, it is impossible to simply quietly bend the dress along the neckline and hem or stitch it to the edge. But there are other ways to handle this node.
Processing the neckline of an unlined guipure dress
The raw neckline of a dress, if unlined, will prick and look sloppy. There are several ways to solve this problem.
The easiest option is to trim the cutout with a bias tape to match the fabric. This method of processing is justified if the dress also has similar elements – inserts of satin fabric, outside embossed seams with a satin ribbon, satin bows. In other cases, an oblique inlay will reduce the cost of the product.
Tip: a regular inlay can look rude. Therefore, you can cut it yourself from organza, silk, satin or lining fabric.
Seam allowance at the neck
The second way is to fold and hem the guipure. You can slightly modify it and cut out the facing, sweep it and sew it on. Cut off the allowances as much as possible. Then bend it so that the neck goes on the wrong side by 1 mm. Press on and secure at shoulder seams, or sew by hand.
Tip: if the trim is cut out of organza matching the shade, it will be less noticeable under the transparent guipure. However, both the hem and the piping will be visible. Therefore, along the cutout, you can sew a scalloped edge of guipure or pick up lace to match. In this case, it is possible to bend the allowance on the front side, since it will hide under the trim.
Soutache on the edge
Such processing of the neck of a dress made of guipure is also possible. To do this, you need the product itself and the soutache. Soutache is a flat textile cord with a groove in the center.
- From the front side, the soutache is laid out strictly along the neckline.
- Sewn on with a fine stitch that runs along the groove.
- Now on the soutache cord, grabbing the guipure, you need to walk with a satin stitch roller or a frequent zigzag.
- Next, the allowance is cut close to the soutache cord.
It is important to choose the color of the threads. They must exactly match the tone of the fabric.
Advice: to prevent the soutache from slipping during sewing, it can be glued to the guipure using a regular glue stick. It is inconspicuous, and after washing it washes well.
This option is also good in that the neckline does not stretch over time, since the soutache is thin, but strong, and the guipure edge does not shaggy.
We sew lace: processing the neck with scallops
If our lace has a beautiful scalloped edge, then not only the bottom of the dress and sleeves should be scalloped, but also the neckline. And here two options are possible. First , the scallops for the neck are cut from the main fabric, laid out along the rounded neck line and fixed in this position using WTO (wet heat treatment).
In the second case, if the lace does not have the necessary flexibility and plasticity, the scalloped edge cannot be bent along the oval line of the neckline, and the neckline needs to be decorated somehow, we will make this scalloped edge with our own hands.
We sew lace: the neckline and “invisible” darts
In the first, simple version, I have Alencon lace, in which, against the background of the thinnest, like a spider web, mesh, a thin, but very strong and hard, like wire, laces are sewn, forming a pattern.
I combine the back and shelf patterns along the shoulder seams and, applying the cut edge, I calculate how many scallops fit into the neck length I need. The maximum possible depth of the neckline is marked with a red felt-tip pen.
I make a pattern, along which I lay out the scalloped edge for the WTO and along it I cut out the adhesive water-soluble stabilizer I need for installation.I glue the stabilizer to the seamy side of the neckline of the dress, and on top, on the front side, I apply a prepared scalloped edge, combine the lines of the basting along the neckline of the dress and the scalloped edge, fix, zig-zag scallop along the lines of the lace (with the help of which a pattern is created in this lace).
I cut off the stabilizer and the lace edge of the dress, getting close to the zig-zag line. I rinse the neck under running water, washing out the stabilizer. I dry it, iron it out.
WHAT IS LACE? READ IN MATERIAL BURDASTYLE.RU!
In the second case, I have Viennese lace, which does not have a background mesh and the fragments of the pattern are connected by short jumpers. And, as I said, I will do the scalloped edge for the neck myself.
I need to decide how deep the neckline will be and how many scallops fit along this neckline. I draw a scalloped edge. I got 17 scallops.
I transfer the embroidery pattern to a water-soluble stabilizer and start to embroider.
NECK LACE PROCESSING, STEP-BY-STEP MASTER CLASS
I cut out the embroidery, wash and dry.
I apply it to the neckline and understand that I overdid it with the depth of the neckline. And you will have to do everything anew so that the depth of the neckline is not too great.
I am making a new pattern for the neckline for embroidery. Now I already have 14 scallops, 3 fewer scallops than it was.
I no longer take pictures of the embroidery process, everything is the same, the same sequence. I sew the embroidered scallops to the neckline.
I invite you to visit my store and my Youtube channel and wish you, my dear needlewomen, success!
With love, your Lyubov Komissarova
Processing the neckline of a guipure dress with lining
If the dress is provided with a lining or otherwise a cover, then the task is to combine the cover and the dress itself.
- Fold the front side of the guipure dress with the inside of the lining.
- Stitch along the neckline.
- Cut off the allowances, and notch in the places where the neck is rounded.
- Turn the dress inside out.
- Iron out.
- Since the finishing seam can be rough, secure two layers at the shoulder seams.
In such a dress, you can also use the method of trimming the neck of the dress with guipure, more precisely, its scalloped edge. The festoons can be stitched over the garment by hand or inserted between the guipure and lining.
Choose the option that suits you and suits you.
There are never too many lace dresses for a real woman. And in the coming spring-summer days, dresses will always come in handy. We are always irresistible in dresses. So she can sew herself without resorting to buying. Here is such a master class, it is shown how to sew a dress from heavy, transparent and voluminous Venetian lace. This lace does not have a background mesh, as well as Viennese lace, but unlike it, it has not short, but long bridles (bridges) that connect fragments of the lace pattern.
In order not to lose this transparency (and not to make something monumental, heavy), I wanted to sew a dress from lace without duplicating it with lining. And sew a dress-cover separately, from a highly stretchable stretch fabric, in a sticky shape.
All seams must be thin, even, strong and reliable (in use). Due to the transparency, neither the zipper nor the stitching darts could be used! And yet there are darts in the dress, they are at the back, on the sag line of the waist, but they do not break the lace, because they are not visible! This is how I did it, and my master class is about it. I must say right away that I did not find anything about this method of lace processing on the Internet! Therefore, I am sharing my idea with you, realizing that there will be those to whom this method may be interesting (to many!) And useful (to very few)!
We will need:
master class from Lyubov Komissarova
– adhesive water-soluble stabilizer Avalon;
– threads for embroidery, ideally (this is important!) Matching in color, brilliance with our lace;
– thin, dense and narrow soutache of lace color or close to it.
We choose a simple cut with a minimum of seams, lay the fabric on the table, then patterns, choose the optimal layout for the most advantageous arrangement of the pattern pattern and glue the adhesive stabilizer with the adhesive side to the wrong side of the fabric.
On top of the lace, along the line of the neckline and armholes we lay soutache, we sew it with a small stitch into the groove of the soutache.
Then this soutache needs to be processed with a satin stitch roller (threads that perfectly match the color of the lace).
For fitting, one side seam is sour cream, the other is chipped along the lines of the basting.
When trying on, you need to cut the bridles at the back of the waist and make a small overlap of the lace on top of each other, attaching the product. Remember that we will not have zippers and we cannot make a strong fit. We check how easily the customer slips out of the dress.
Now you need to glue the glue stabilizer under the lace, cut off some fragments of the pattern (of your choice) so as to remove all lace layers. All this dismemberment is supported by an adhesive stabilizer.
Let’s hoop it up.
We begin to embroider, connecting the (offended) dismembered lace fragments into a single whole
We grind the side seams using a soutache, which we process with a satin stitch roller. Cut off all seam allowances. Once again, at the final stage, we go along the satin stitch roller, strengthening, strengthening it. Soutache gives us a thin, clear and strong seam line that does not sag in the air, beautiful and reliable.
The dress is worn with pleasure and I can say with confidence that the result is such a treatment of the seams – reliable, high-quality and beautiful.
I hope that my idea of processing seams will definitely be useful to someone, even a few. So, it was not in vain that I tried!
Sew from lace and enjoy the process and the result! Three And Night wishes everyone success!
How to sew a lining to a dress
The lining is sewn to the dress in two ways: manually to the trims for the neck cuts, or the neck cuts are turned directly with the lining.
The lining is cut according to the same patterns as the dress. If the dress has trims for neck cuts, then the lining is cut out minus the width of the trims. To do this, put the sewing patterns on the front and back parts along the corresponding lines of the necks and transfer the inner lines of the seams to the patterns (1). Cut the patterns along these lines. The sleeves of the dress are made without lining.
In the case of one-piece sleeves, set aside the length of the shoulder according to the measurement chart and place a mark on the sewing details of the front and back. From this mark to the side seam, draw an armhole line (2).
In the case of raglan sleeves, set aside the length of the shoulder along the line of the shoulder seam or shoulder dart, respectively, and put a mark. Cut the pattern of the one-piece raglan sleeve along the line of the middle of the dart and continue the cut to the bottom edge of the sleeve. Glue the details of the pattern of the front and back to the details of the sleeves along the stitching lines from the edge of the neckline to the beginning of the rounding, respectively, and then draw the line of the armhole of the regular sleeve (3). Cut out the lining with 1-1.5 cm allowances for seams and hem.
SO MANUALLY SEWING THE LINING TO THE STITCHES
The dress by this time has already been sewn and ironed. Sew darts and seams on the lining. Neaten and press the seam allowances.
At the bottom cut, press the lining to the wrong side, 2 cm above the marked bottom line. Fold the lining and stitch to the edge. On dresses with sleeves, overcast the cuts of the lining armholes.
Pin the lining to the wrong side of the dress, aligning the darts and seams. Tuck the lining and pin it to the piping, while notching the lining seam allowance in several places. Fold back the lining and pin it to the zipper tape, 7.5 mm from the teeth. Sew the lining by hand with a blind stitch (4).
On dresses with sleeves, fasten the lining openings with several stitches at the side and shoulder seams or shoulder pads, respectively (5).
THIS IS THE NECK CUT-OFFS TURNED WITH A LINING ..
On dresses with sleeves, everything is very simple, since only the neck is processed.
At this point, the dress has been sewn up to the stage of zipper closure and processing of the neckline. Sew darts and seams on the lining. Neaten and press the seam allowances. Overcast armholes and hem. Pull the lining over the dress right side to front and pin off the necklines, aligning the shoulder seams.
On the back of the lining, unscrew the allowances along the edges of the zipper opening to the wrong side of the lining at a distance of 5 mm from the marked seam line and pin .
On the dress, turn the allowances along the edges of the zipper opening to the right side and pin them to the neckline over the lining.
Stitch dress necklines and lining. Cut off the seam allowances close to the stitching, in the fillet areas, notch close to the stitching. Turn the lining and the seams around the zipper opening to the wrong side. Sweep and press the edges.
Baste the zipper from the edge of the neckline to the edge of the opening for the back fastening. Tuck the top ends of the zipper braids. Sew on the zipper .
Fold over the lining and sew to the zipper tapes ..
On sleeveless dresses, the neckline and armholes are lined in one step. For overcasting necklines, the shoulder and side seams on the dress and on the lining must be open so that the dress can be turned inside out.
This is done as follows: fold the details of the lining with the corresponding details of the dress with the front sides and pin off the cuts of the armholes and necklines, aligning the lines of the seams. On the back of the lining, unscrew the allowances along the edges of the zipper opening to the wrong side of the lining at a distance of 5 mm from the marked seam line and pin.
On the dress, turn the allowances along the edges of the zipper opening to the right side and pin them to the neckline over the lining. On the front and back, grind the necklines and armholes, starting/ending each line, without reaching approx. 3 cm to the marked shoulder seam line. Cut the allowances of each seam close to the stitching, cut notches in the fillet sections.
Turn out before. Slip the shoulder sections of the front between the dress and the lining into the shoulder sections of the back, aligning the front sides of the dress and the lining, respectively. Pin the front and back of the dress along the lines of the shoulder seams and grind off the shoulder sections. Then pin off the lining along the shoulder seam lines and stitch (11). In front of the shoulder sections, pull slightly outward and iron the seam allowances.
Chip and grind the remaining open neck cuts. Before pulling the back from the shoulder sections, the lining on the back will turn out to the wrong side. Press the edges of the necklines on the side of the lining. On each side, stitch the side cuts to the dress and lining using a single stitch. Sew on the zipper, sew the lining to the zipper tapes.